Diamonds; these brilliant gems, which form deep within the Earth’s mantle under extreme pressure and heat, come in a variety of sizes, colors, clarities and most importantly, cuts and shapes.
When buying diamond jewelry, whether for yourself or as a meaningful gift, it’s important to think about the cuts and shapes. A round diamond gives off a different sparkle compared to an oval-shaped one, and the same goes for other cuts and shapes, such as princess, emerald, and marquise. You want to pick a style that you or your loved one will enjoy and that fits well with the jewelry design. We’ll discuss some of the most popular ones in this ultimate guide to diamond cuts and shapes to help you understand.
What Are Diamond Cuts?
A diamond’s cut refers to its shape and polish after processing. It’s one of the most important factors in determining a diamond’s appearance and value. A well-cut diamond will have a higher level of brilliance, fire, and scintillation—all characteristics that contribute to its beauty.
A diamond with an ideal cut will reflect most of the light that enters it back to the eye. It’ll appear bright, vibrant, and full of life. A diamond that’s cut too deep or too shallow will leak light through the sides or bottom, causing it to lose its brilliance and look dull.
The three standard types of cuts include the step cut, brilliant cut, and mixed cut. The step cut features square or rectangular facets that run parallel to the diamond’s girdle. Brilliant cuts have triangular and kite-shaped facets arranged in a circular pattern. Mixed cuts combine elements of both step and brilliant cuts; for example, they may have a step-cut pavilion and a brilliant-cut crown.
Along with the type of cut, jewelry buyers should also think about the quality of the cut. You measure cut quality by examining the diamond’s proportions, symmetry, and polish. These factors are what you consider when grading a diamond’s cut on a scale of Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair, or Poor. Diamonds with an Excellent or Very Good cut grade have exceptional light performance and overall beauty. However, not all diamonds with the same cut grade will appear identical, as there can be variations in their proportions and facet angles.
The Types of Diamond Shapes
Shape refers to the style of a diamond’s outline when viewed from above. While the diamond’s cut refers to its proportions, symmetry, and polish, the shape is more about personal preference and aesthetics.
Generally, you can categorize most diamonds into two main shapes: Round and fancy. The round shape is a circular diamond, as the name suggests. The fancy shape includes all other shapes besides round, such as pear, emerald, cushion, heart, and marquise. Let’s take a closer look at some of the most common diamond shapes and their unique characteristics.
Round Brilliant Shape
The round brilliant cut is the most popular and widely used cut for diamonds. It has a circular shape with 58 facets that allow for maximum light reflection and create a sparkle effect known as “fire.” Many consider this cut to be the standard for high-quality diamonds; it optimizes the diamond’s brilliance and minimizes any flaws or inclusions within the stone.
Princess Shape
The princess cut is a square-shaped diamond with 76 facets. It’s the second most popular diamond cut and is known for its modern and contemporary look. The princess cut has excellent light performance, like that of the round brilliant cut, but with a more unique shape.
Emerald Shape
The emerald cut has long been favored for its elegant and sophisticated look. Its rectangular shape with cropped corners allows for a beautiful display of the diamond’s clarity and color. In contrast to other cuts, the emerald cut doesn’t have as much sparkle but instead exudes a subtle glow.
Asscher Shape
Like the emerald cut, the asscher cut also has a rectangular shape with cropped corners. However, it has more facets and a higher crown, giving it more brilliance and sparkle. The asscher cut gets its name from the Asscher brothers, who created it in 1902, and has become popular for its vintage and art deco style.
Radiant Shape
A combination of the emerald and round brilliant cut, the radiant cut features cropped corners like an emerald cut but with triangular facets on its pavilion like a round diamond. This shape results in a unique and modern cut with a brilliant sparkle. It was created in the 1970s by Henry Grossbard. He wanted to create a cut that combined the best features of both emerald and round diamonds.
Cushion Shape
The cushion cut typically has 58 facets, including large facets on the crown that create a soft and romantic appearance. Many often describe this cut as a cross between a round and square shape, with rounded edges and large facets that give off a soft, almost pillow-like appearance. The cushion cut is known for its brilliance, as it reflects light in a way that creates a beautiful sparkle.
Heart Shape
A heart-shaped diamond is a symbol of love and romance. This cut has a distinct cleft at the top, with a curved bottom that forms two lobes resembling a heart. The number of facets on a heart-shaped diamond can vary, but most have 59 or 61.
Pear Shape
The pear shape, also known as the teardrop, combines the round and marquise shapes into one elegant cut. Its pointed end and rounded curve give it a classic and contemporary appearance. The pear shape typically has 58 facets.
Baguette Shape
The baguette shape is a rectangular step cut with straight, parallel facets. Many jewelers use it as side stones in engagement rings or as accents in other jewelry pieces. The number of facets on a baguette diamond can vary, but most have 14 or 20 facets.
Marquise Shape
The marquise shape is a long, narrow diamond with pointed ends. It has 58 facets and is known for its elongated appearance, making it look larger than other shapes of the same carat weight. The marquise shape was originally created for King Louis XIV, who wanted a diamond that resembled the shape of his mistress’s lips.
Although additional cuts exist, these are the ones that are most common in the market. Because they’re so popular, they are often more readily available from jewelers and are typically less expensive than other, more unique cuts. However, just because they’re popular doesn’t mean that they are the only options available. Some other less common, but just as remarkable cuts, include the trilliant cut, which is a triangular shape with rounded edges, and the coffin cut, which is a rectangular shape with cut corners.
Everelle Jewelry carries diamond rings, bracelets, necklaces, and more in all cuts and styles! Our lab-grown diamond jewelry is of the highest quality and comes at a more affordable price than natural diamonds, without losing the same beauty and sparkle. Shop our ready-to-ship options using this ultimate guide to diamond cuts and shapes as a reference for your next purchase, or contact us for custom-made pieces made just for you or your loved one.